It starts with tires - if you don't have the proper tires it really doesn't matter what you do. So that's first. The very best tires I could find were Metzeler Interac M5's. Unfortunately, they are no longer available. I think I may have the last set of new M3's in existence
They are a Z rated tire and they are 110's. All other tires are useless in comparison. The M5's are a real tire and the typical 125 replacement tires (Shinko/Michelin etc) are not even remotely in the same league.
After that you need to set the rider-aboard sag in the front suspension. You do this by sitting on the bike fully geared up and taking some before/after measurements. Once that's done you then install some inexpensive PVC pipe in the front shocks to change the preload. This can be done without buying tires as the first step.
After that, assuming you have new tires, you need to adjust the trail setting to get the bike to fall in the way you like. This is a critical setting and pays huge dividends because you're effectively adjusting the suspension to match your new tires. That step gets done by lowering the bike in the forks.
Once both steps are done the bike will handle exceptionally well. Ie, you can take some 40k corners at 100k. Literally. Armed with the right tires and right suspension tweaks the show's over when compared to most any other bike.
This was a video I shot earlier this year for a friend over in the UK showing how the bike as running. I was only riding at about 80% of maximum but you can see in a lot of the corners I'm doing typically double what the road signs recommend.
it's also worth noting that engine in that video was bagged, burning a lot of oil (usually half a litre between runs) and would not exceed 12,000 RPM due to a valvetrain issue. In short, the engine was under performing by a wide margin. It's since been replaced but the weather has been so bad that it's not worth going out and breaking it in