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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:56 pm 
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Racing ECU (!!)
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Location: Parksville, BC, Canada
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Hi folks;

Here's a video showing you how to do a quality oil change on the CBR 125 along with an important oil recommendation that will make your bike faster and enable you to actually reach Honda's suggested oil change interval.

One thing that's important, and I don't recall whether I mentioned it in the video, but do check your oil level again after a short ride. The level will often drop a little once all the nooks and crannies are re-filled.

Oil change capacity when doing a HOT oil change and TILTING the bike will be about 1.3L - this is the preferred way to change the oil as it gets almost all the old oil out :top:

phpBB [media]

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:52 pm 
I would like to get a magnetic oil drain plug for my 2008 cbr 125, do you know what size is required? Also instead of getting a new plug would it be possible to attach a rare earth magnet to the existing plug? If so how would you attach it? Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:57 am 
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zooman001 wrote:
I would like to get a magnetic oil drain plug for my 2008 cbr 125, do you know what size is required? Also instead of getting a new plug would it be possible to attach a rare earth magnet to the existing plug? If so how would you attach it? Thanks



It's an M12x1.5 plug. I personally don't like the idea of leaving bits inside the oil pickup area such as loose magnets etc. If you epoxy them in place then it's hard to clean them. I think the easiest solution is probably best, replace the plug with a magnetic one.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 9:51 am 
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It might be a good idea to remove the fairing first and then go on a ride to get the oil up to temperature. Very quick process getting the hot oil out at that point. I think I might put a glove on being under the engine loosening that bolt though.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:00 am 
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One quick question about switching to the synthetic oil you mention. I was told to wait until about 10,000kms to switch to synthetic on my 2003 CBR954RR. Is there a similar mileage to wait on a little bike like the 125? I was told it had something to do with breaking the bike in 100% before switching.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:26 am 
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Superclean09 wrote:
It might be a good idea to remove the fairing first and then go on a ride to get the oil up to temperature. Very quick process getting the hot oil out at that point. I think I might put a glove on being under the engine loosening that bolt though.


+1 Running the bike down the road with the fairing off will make it run hotter faster. There's no danger, it will just not have the directed airflow over the engine :top:

Superclean09 wrote:
One quick question about switching to the synthetic oil you mention. I was told to wait until about 10,000kms to switch to synthetic on my 2003 CBR954RR. Is there a similar mileage to wait on a little bike like the 125? I was told it had something to do with breaking the bike in 100% before switching.


I've been all through the engine on this bike and I can't see any reason not to go to straight synthetic. I suspect a lot of this theory comes from the automotive trade where it's important not to run synthetic oil in some engines during the break-in procedure. This will have a whole lot to do with ring seating and the friction modifiers that are present in automotive oils.

Thing is, if you are using the right synthetic, those friction modifiers are not present in your motorcycle oil. Most better new cars comes with synthetic pre-installed before the engines are broken in. This all ultimately comes back to the finish on the cylinder walls and getting the rings to seat in - which hasn't been an issue since somewhere around 1955 or so :laugh:

I think a lot of these synthetic rumors are just that. There was a basis of truth to them at one point but it was long ago and it would have been more accurate in the automotive trade where the oils have excellent friction modifiers that are not present in synthetic motorcycle wet clutch oil.

The rings/cylinder/piston on the 125 is very robust :top: I've had mine torn down 4 times now at various mileages and all I do is a quick clean-up hone on it. Cylinder/rings/piston are not a problem area. I would suggest an early change on a new bike anyway due to the machine oil and bits & pieces that are present from when the factory machines the side cases. I have two new cases here and there's machining oil left in them along with sundry bits of aluminum shavings from the manufacturing process.

Maybe a happy medium for those concerned is put 500k on the engine and then a hot oil change and move it to synthetic?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:50 am 
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Thanks for the reply on the oil question! It's true that technology changes quickly and old information stays current way too long.

In another post I mentioned I was having problems downloading some vids and pictures.
Here is the link to one that won't download for me.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=151
(Your first post and it's the hydraulic brake switch pic that won't load)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 11:11 am 
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Ah.... it's not a picture, it's an excerpt from the service manual. My guess is you're using a MAC or something other then a Windows computer. If so, do a search for an .XPS viewer (software) and you should be good to go :top:

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