It's a bit of a pill the first time through. Once you do it once or twice it's not that bad. In fact, I'll be doing it again shortly as it's that time.
Experience has shown that the first valve lash is very important. This is because the camshaft and valvetrain break-in together and there is some wear. Once the first valve lash has been done it's much less critical as the majority of the wear has already occurred.
Easiest way is to remove both front side covers and the radiator. Once they are out of the way it's not too bad
Lifting the tank also makes it easier.